'COOKLET' PART III:

Egypt’s days as a province of the Byzantine Empire came to an end with the Arab conquest of 641 CE. The warrior newcomers were reported to have been overwhelmed by the variety of dishes the Egyptians ate compared to their simple Bedouin diet. Sadly however, we do not know very much about what these varieties included.

From then on, Egypt was ruled by a succession of dynasties and caliphates but unless there was a drought or a famine, no one went hungry. The poor had plenty of cheap bread, and the sick were fed in free public hospitals. Even food from the sultan’s kitchens found its way to the bellies of the public. Emir Ahmed Ibn Tulun prepared take-out meals in disposable pottery vessels each day, including meat and falawzaj for dessert. The harem cooks of his extravagant grandson Khamaraweih, would sell the abundant amounts of surplus food at the palace gates.

When the Fatimids established the city of Cairo in the tenth century CE, the new capital soon became a flourishing metropolis and a main culinary centre of the Islamic world. Multitudes of people of different ethnicities flocked to the city bringing with them new farming techniques, plant species, and of course, recipes. Cairo, in turn, assimilated new influences with remarkable speed. New crops included sugar cane, eggplant, rice, taro, and different varieties of citrus fruits, to name but a few. Staples included mutton, beef, chicken, geese, eggs, wheat, fava beans, sugar, sesame oil, melons, and quinces.

The tradition of feeding the masses continued with the Fatimids whose famous cooks and confectioners made the sweets and popular pinwheel bazmaward sandwiches distributed during religious festivities. In their extravagant feasts, hundreds of dishes would be piled up, reaching the height of a man, and eating contests would entertain the public. Finally, two huge sugar palaces decorated with rows of sugar figurines would be placed outside the palace. The custom of creating sugar figurines during religious festivities survives to this day, more specifically for the festival of the prophet’s birthday.

The austere Ayyubids who replaced the Fatimids, fired many of the celebrated female palace cooks, who eventually set up their own public cooking businesses, serving the Cairenes who had grown accustomed to convenient takeaway food. The marketplaces became an important feature of medieval Cairo and inhabitants could purchase every conceivable kind of food there. Although these public cooking businesses eventually came to be dominated by men under the ensuing Mamluks, they continued to flourish along with the markets.

Things remained largely unchanged until Egypt was annexed to the Ottoman Empire in 1517 CE, becoming a province providing agricultural and tax revenue. The Mamluks were relegated to the task of tax collectors and administrators for the new rulers, throwing Egypt into an era of heavy exploitation and slow decline.

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BAZMAWARD 

(Pinwheel Sandwiches)

Source: Kitab al-Tabikh (the earliest known cookbook in Arabic)

Date: 10th century CE

Developed by Omar Marsafi (original documented by Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq)

Before Cairo became a medieval culinary capital, Baghdad reigned supreme during the Abbasid era. This Iraqi pinwheel sandwich eventually found its way to Egypt, and was a popular food served to the public at celebrations during the Fatimid era.

Roast

Ingredients

• 1 eye round roast
• 1 tsp salt
• 1/2 tsp black pepper
• 1 tbsp sunflower oil 

Method

Preheat oven to 180°C. Season the roast with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Sear the meat for about 2 minutes on each side or until a nice crust develops, making sure to sear the ends as well. Place the meat in the oven, uncovered for 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to rest and cool before refrigerating. Slice thinly

Flatbread

Ingredients

• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp salt
• 3/4 cup water
• 1 tbsp olive oil + 1 tbsp for cooking

Method

Add flour and salt in a bowl and mix well. Add the olive oil and 3/4 of the water and knead. Add the remaining water if the dough is too stiff. Knead for 10 minutes until the dough comes together to form a smooth ball then leave to rest for 10 minutes, covered. Divide the dough into 50g balls and roll them out to about ¼-cm-thick disks.

Add a couple of drops of the remaining olive oil to a pan on medium heat and cook the bread for 2 minutes on each side. Repeat for the rest of the dough. Cover the cooked bread with a kitchen towel until needed for assembly.

Rosewater Dressing

Ingredients

• 4 tsp rose water
• 2 1/2 tbsp distilled white vinegar
• 2 tsp lemon juice
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 1 tbsp crushed toasted walnuts
• 2 1/2 tbsp mint, finely chopped

Method

Whisk all the ingredients together

Bazmaward Assembly

Arrange slices of roast on the flatbread and sprinkle with the dressing. Roll (as you would a wrap) and slice into 2-cm-wide pinwheels. Sprinkle additional dressing, if desired, and serve.

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SEASONED HALLOUMI CHEESE

Source: Kanz al-Fawa’id Fi Tanwi‘ al-Mawa’id (Treasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table)

Date: 14th century CE

Developed by: Nawal Nasrallah (original author of Kanz anonymous)

Ingredients

• ¼ kg halloumi cheese, cut into cubes
• ¼ cup red wine vinegar or lime juice
• 1 clove garlic, mashed with a pinch of salt
• ¾ cup toasted and crushed walnuts
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• ½ tsp caraway seeds, toasted and crushed
• ½ tsp coriander seeds, toasted and crushed
• ¼ tsp ground ginger
• ¼ cup finely chopped mint
• 1 tsp rose petals, crumbled
• salt and pepper

Garnish

• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 1 tsp toasted and coarsely crushed hazelnuts
• 2 tbsp chopped mint
• coarsely crumbled rose petals

Method

Put the cubed cheese in a bowl. In a food processor, combine the wine vinegar (or lime juice), mashed garlic, walnuts, olive oil, caraway, coriander, and ginger. Pulse the mixture until it has the consistency of pesto. Toss it with the cheese in the bowl, along with the chopped mint and the rose petals. Season to taste. Cover the bowl and set it aside for about an hour, to allow the flavours to blend. Serve drizzled with olive oil, crushed hazelnuts, chopped mint, and rose petals.

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KISHK

Source: Kanz al-Fawa’id fī Tanwi‘ al-Mawa’id (Treasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table)

Date: 14th century CE

Developed by Moustafa Elrefaey (original author of Kanz anonymous)

Kishk consists of balls of fermented wheat and buttermilk, usually kept as a staple in households. This is a recipe listed in the 14th-century cookbook as an older version of the kishk they made at the time the author published the book.

Ingredients

• ½ kg thinly sliced beef
• 1 cup chopped onion
• 8 cups water
• pinch ground cassia (cinnamon)
• 2 cups cauliflower
• 1 cup sliced eggplant
• 1 cup sliced zucchini
• 15 chard leaves (can be substituted with spinach)
• ½ cup purslane (or watercress)
• 25 balls of kishk (fermented dough)
• ¼ tsp. dried thyme
• 1 tsp salt
• 1 tsp ground cumin
• ¼ tsp ground black pepper
• ¼ tsp ground coriander seeds
• 1 tbsp chopped fresh mint
• 1 tbsp chopped fresh basil

Method

In a stock pot, add the beef, onion, pinch of cassia, and water and bring to boil. Add the cauliflower and cook for 5 minutes then add the eggplant, zucchini, chard, and purslane (watercress) and cook for an additional 10 minutes.

In a separate bowl, place the kishk and pour 4 ladles of the hot broth over it, tempering it. Add the kishk to the pot and keep stirring on low flame until it begins to break up and create a smooth sauce (almost like a béchamel). Add the remaining, spices, salt, and herbs. Garnish with more herbs and serve hot.

Note: Lamb may be substituted for beef.

LEBABEYA

(Sweet Chicken with Fresh Croutons)

Source: Kanz al-Fawa’id Fi Tanwi‘ al-Mawa’id (Treasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table)

Date: 14th century CE

Developed by Nawal Nasrallah (original author of Kanz anonymous)

This unusual dish, a specialty of medieval Egypt, tastes almost like a dessert.

Ingredients

• 2 cups of coarse crumbs of fresh bread
• ¼ cup oil
• 1½ cups sugar syrup (see below)
• 1 whole chicken, boiled and fried, or use store-bought rotisserie chicken

Syrup

• 1 ½ cups sugar
• 1 ¼ cups water
• 1 tbsp honey
• Juice of one lemon
• 1 tbsp rosewater

Method

The recipe calls for crumbs of fresh white bread with crusts removed; dried breadcrumbs may not be substituted for this.

To make the syrup: In a medium pot, combine sugar, water, honey, lemon juice, and rosewater. Bring the sugar mixture to a boil on low heat until a drop placed in a saucer keeps its dome shape and does not go flat (120°C – about 10 minutes). Remove the pot from the heat immediately.

Meanwhile, fry the crumbs in oil, until golden, and stir them into the hot syrup. Pour this mixture over the chicken, set in a deep platter. The syrup should be thick enough to coat the chicken, giving it a glazed appearance.

TOFAHEYYA

(Meat Stew with Apples)

Source: Kanz al-Fawa’id Fi Tanwi‘ al-Mawa’id (Treasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table)

Date: 14th century CE

Developed by Wesam Masoud (original author of Kanz anonymous)

Another sweet and savoury dish of the type medieval travellers found so curious in Cairene cuisine.

Ingredients

• 3 tbsp butter
• 1 tsp fresh white onion, grated
• 1/2 tsp ground coriander seeds
• 1 tsp cumin powder
• 1/2 tbsp fresh ginger, peeled and minced 
• 1 small clove garlic, minced
• 1/2 fresh green apple, cut into chunks
• 3 cups beef stock
• 250 g beef tenderloin, cut into small cubes
• 3 tbsp ground almonds
• 1 tsp cornflour
• 1 tsp apple vinegar 
• 1 tsp white sugar
• 1 tsp fresh coriander
• 1 tsp fresh mint
• 1 tsp turmeric powder
• salt and pepper to taste

Method

In a saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter and sauté the onion, coriander seeds, cumin powder, ginger, and garlic until fragrant. Add the apples and toss to evenly cook on all sides

Meanwhile, heat the beef stock in a separate pot over medium heat and simmer the beef cubes for 5 minutes, skimming off any impurities that rise to the top. Strain the beef from the stock and add to the apple mixture. Turn up the heat and brown the beef and apples together, careful not to let the garlic burn. Add a little beef stock and the ground almonds and stir to combine. Cook until tender.

In a cup, stir together the cornflour, vinegar, and sugar and add to the stew. Simmer for 5 minutes and add the fresh herbs and the turmeric powder. Mix well.

Season with salt and pepper and serve with fresh grated apples and a garnish of fresh mint.

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NUHUD AL ‘AZARI

(‘Virgin’s Breast’ Cookies)

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Photo: MAIJANE SABA

Source: Kanz al-Fawa’id Fi Tanwi‘ al-Mawa’id (Treasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table)

Date: 14th century CE

Developed by: Nawal Nasrallah (original author of Kanz anonymous)

Ingredients

• 1 cup white all-purpose flour
• 1 cup almond flour
• ¾ cup sugar
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• ½ teaspoon ground cardamom
• pinch of salt
• ½ cup oil (such as canola)
• 3 tablespoons rosewater
• 20 raisins

Method

Put the dry ingredients in a food processor, and pulse once or twice to mix. Slowly add the oil while pulsing a few more times. Add the rosewater, then pulse repeatedly until the mix clumps together. Add more water (sparingly) if needed.

Slightly moisten your hands with rosewater and take a walnut-sized piece, roll by hand into a ball and place on a lightly oiled cookie sheet. Repeat with the remaining pieces, leaving a space between each one. Press a raisin in the middle of each piece and bake on the middle shelf of a preheated oven (190°C) for about 11 minutes (do not let them over-bake). Finish the baking on the top shelf of the oven for two more minutes.

The recipes for seasoned halloumi cheese, kishk, lebabeyya, tofaheyya, and nuhud al-‘azari are adapted from Treasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table: A Fourteenth-Century Egyptian Cookbook, English translation with introduction, glossary, and appendix by Nawal Nasrallah (Leiden: Brill, 2018) with the kind permission of the author.